Fillable checklist

Kitchen Remodel Checklist: Plan Demo and Finish (Free Printable PDF)

Fillable owner kitchen remodel walk: layout, appliances, demo, rough MEP, cabinets, and finish punch. Print blank or save a filled PDF.

Buying & selling Fillable form · 8 sections · 52 checks Download filled or blank PDF and CSV Cross-checked against EPA RRP, ENERGY STAR, CPSC, and IRC · Last verified Sep 16, 2026

Snugage fillable checklist

Fill this on screen, then download a PDF or CSV. Download a blank copy to complete by hand. Answers stay in this tab only. The next visitor sees a blank form. This is an owner planning and walk list for a US kitchen remodel: layout, appliances, demo, rough MEP, cabinets and counters, then finish punch. It is not a building permit, not a contract, and not a licensed inspection.

  • 8 sections
  • 52 checks
  • Blank for each visitor

Form details

Project and property

Record the kitchen you are actually remodeling. This is an owner planning template, not a building permit, not a contract, and not a substitute for a licensed inspection or the contractor written scope. Permits, occupancy, and EPA RRP authorized-state programs vary.

12 fields
Project and property

EPA: housing built before 1978 is presumed to have lead-based paint unless a certified determination says otherwise.

This field records status only. Filling this form does not apply for a permit.

Owner, household member, or company walking the list.

Home Depot: empty cabinets, stage a temporary kitchen, and keep children and pets out of the work area.

Inspection station

Layout and planning

Do this before you order cabinets or open walls. Mark Skip only when the line is not due yet. Mark N/A if that layout piece is not in this kitchen. Bathroom layout, tub, shower, and toilet belong on a bathroom remodel list.

8 items
Layout and planning

Room measured, openings and utilities marked

Home Depot site analysis: measure the room and record doors, windows, and existing plumbing and electrical before design. Photograph the space if it helps the layout. Do not start demolition before new cabinets are delivered and checked (Home Depot Planning Guide).

Room measured, openings and utilities marked: Done, Skip, or N/A

Sink, range, and refrigerator on a usable work triangle

Home Depot: the work triangle is sink, cooking range, and refrigerator, with a clear path between each and counter space at the sink and range. The Planning Guide recommends the three sides add up to about 26 feet as a planning aid, not a pass or fail score on this form.

Sink, range, and refrigerator on a usable work triangle: Done, Skip, or N/A

Island or peninsula leaves a clear walk

Home Depot: leave open space between an island and the work triangle so the walk is not a pinch point. That page cites a wide 5 to 15 foot planning range by kitchen size. This form does not treat that range as a measured fail. Mark N/A if there is no island or peninsula.

Island or peninsula leaves a clear walk: Done, Skip, or N/A

Range placed where a hood can be ducted

Home Depot: place cooking ranges on an exterior wall when you can. An interior wall or an island cooktop makes a ducted hood harder and more expensive. An island cooktop often needs a canopy, a ceiling duct, or a downdraft. Mark N/A only if this kitchen has no range or cooktop.

Range placed where a hood can be ducted: Done, Skip, or N/A

Dishwasher planned next to the sink and disposer

Home Depot Planning Guide: place the dishwasher close to the sink and disposer so dirty dishes do not travel. Mark N/A if there is no dishwasher.

Dishwasher planned next to the sink and disposer: Done, Skip, or N/A

Refrigerator near the kitchen entry

Home Depot Planning Guide: keep the food-storage center (refrigerator, freezer, pantry) close to the kitchen entry so grocery bags do not cross the cooking zone. ENERGY STAR: leave a few inches behind the fridge for air, and keep it away from the oven, dishwasher, and direct sun.

Refrigerator near the kitchen entry: Done, Skip, or N/A

Appliance spec sheets match the planned openings

Home Depot and ENERGY STAR: size the refrigerator and dishwasher to the opening and to how you cook. Record width, height, depth, door swing, and utility needs from the OEM sheet before cabinets are ordered. Do not invent a standard opening size on this form.

Appliance spec sheets match the planned openings: Done, Skip, or N/A

Temporary kitchen and product staging set

Home Depot: empty cabinets and counters, set a temporary kitchen in another room, store new cabinets in a climate-controlled space within 72 hours of delivery, and keep a path to shutoff valves. Expect to be without the kitchen sink while a new counter is templated and built.

Temporary kitchen and product staging set: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Appliances and lighting

Specify the kitchen appliances on this job. Mark N/A for a unit that is staying or is not in the scope. Laundry washers and dryers belong on a laundry list, not here.

8 items
Appliances and lighting

ENERGY STAR refrigerator sized for this kitchen

ENERGY STAR kitchen remodel page: an older fridge can use about 30 percent more energy than a certified model. ENERGY STAR refrigerators: certified models are about 9 percent more efficient than the federal minimum; 16 to 20 cubic feet models are often the most efficient; top-freezer models usually use less energy than side-by-side. Recycle the old unit. Mark N/A if the existing fridge stays.

ENERGY STAR refrigerator sized for this kitchen: Done, Skip, or N/A

ENERGY STAR dishwasher sized for this kitchen

ENERGY STAR: a certified standard dishwasher can save thousands of gallons of water over its life. Standard capacity is more than eight place settings and six serving pieces. Scrape, do not pre-rinse, if you want the water savings the label assumes. Mark N/A if there is no dishwasher.

ENERGY STAR dishwasher sized for this kitchen: Done, Skip, or N/A

Range or cooktop fuel, circuit, or gas confirmed

Home Depot: choose gas, electric, a slide-in or freestanding range, or a cooktop plus wall oven from the space and how you cook. ENERGY STAR lists certified electric cooking products, not every conventional gas range. InterNACHI: an electric range needs a dedicated 240-volt circuit sized to the nameplate (often 40 A, some low-kW units 30 A). A gas range still needs a 120-volt receptacle nearby. Follow the nameplate, not a number you invent here.

Range or cooktop fuel, circuit, or gas confirmed: Done, Skip, or N/A

Anti-tip bracket specified for a freestanding or slide-in range

CPSC Pub. 5007: install the anti-tip bracket that ships with a new range and confirm the range is held in it. Voluntary standards require manufacturers to supply the bracket. CPSC: do not put heavy items on an open oven door. Mark N/A for a built-in wall oven with no freestanding range.

Anti-tip bracket specified for a freestanding or slide-in range: Done, Skip, or N/A

Range hood type chosen: ducted, downdraft, or recirculating

Home Depot: under-cabinet updraft hoods are the most common. Downdraft is typical at island cooktops and often recirculates. Canopy hoods can serve an island if ducted. InterNACHI SOP requires a look at the kitchen mechanical exhaust. Recirculating is a product choice, not the same as a duct that terminates outdoors.

Range hood type chosen: ducted, downdraft, or recirculating: Done, Skip, or N/A

ENERGY STAR ventilation fan if a new hood is specified

ENERGY STAR kitchen remodel page and ventilation-fan page: certified fans use about 48 percent less energy than standard models and have maximum sone and minimum cfm/W limits by type. InterNACHI citing IRC M1503.5 and M1505.5: model-code kitchen rates are 100 cfm intermittent or 25 cfm continuous. Those are model-code figures, not a field fail you measure on this walk. Mark N/A if the existing hood stays.

ENERGY STAR ventilation fan if a new hood is specified: Done, Skip, or N/A

ENERGY STAR kitchen lighting or fixtures specified

ENERGY STAR kitchen remodel page: certified LED fixtures and downlights use up to 90 percent less energy than older lighting. Home Depot Planning Guide: plan overhead, pendant, and under-cabinet light together with the layout. Mark N/A if lighting is out of scope.

ENERGY STAR kitchen lighting or fixtures specified: Done, Skip, or N/A

Old refrigerator recycled, not left as a second fridge

ENERGY STAR: recycle the old refrigerator when you buy a new one. A second old fridge often costs more to run than the new unit saves. Many retailers haul away the old appliance. Mark N/A if no refrigerator is being replaced.

Old refrigerator recycled, not left as a second fridge: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Demo and lead-safe work

Kitchen demo disturbs painted cabinets, plaster, and walls. Mark N/A on RRP lines when the house is 1978 or later, or a lead-free determination is on file. This is not a lead-abatement scope.

8 items
Demo and lead-safe work

Year built recorded for lead-based paint

EPA: the federal ban on lead-based paint for housing was 1978. About three-quarters of pre-1978 US homes still contain some lead-based paint. Record the year in the header so these demo lines match the house.

Year built recorded for lead-based paint: Done, Skip, or N/A

Paid pre-1978 work uses an EPA lead-safe certified firm

EPA RRP: anyone paid to disturb painted surfaces in pre-1978 housing, childcare, or preschools must be a certified firm and use a certified renovator, unless a certified lead-free determination applies. The rule generally does not apply to a homeowner remodeling their own home, but it does apply if you rent part of the home, run childcare, or flip for profit. Some states run their own RRP programs.

Paid pre-1978 work uses an EPA lead-safe certified firm: Done, Skip, or N/A

Renovate Right pamphlet given before paid work starts

EPA: firms must give the Renovate Right lead pamphlet to the owner (and occupants) before renovation starts in pre-1978 housing. Mark N/A for owner-only DIY in your own home, or for 1978-or-later housing.

Renovate Right pamphlet given before paid work starts: Done, Skip, or N/A

Painted-surface disturbance compared to the minor-work limit

EPA 40 CFR 745.83: interior minor repair is 6 square feet or less of painted surface per room, or 20 square feet or less on the exterior, with no prohibited practices, no window replacement, and no demolition of painted components. Jobs in the same room within 30 days count as one job. Cabinet removal that destroys painted boxes is demolition, not minor repair. This form does not require you to measure a fail; write the estimate in Notes.

Painted-surface disturbance compared to the minor-work limit: Done, Skip, or N/A

Work area contained if painted surfaces will be disturbed

EPA: paid RRP work must use lead-safe practices that minimize occupant exposure (containment, wet methods, and cleanup). Home Depot: dust will spread even with care, so close HVAC vents and change the filter. Owner DIY is not under the RRP rule in your own home, but EPA still recommends lead-safe methods.

Work area contained if painted surfaces will be disturbed: Done, Skip, or N/A

Water, gas, and power isolated before demo

Home Depot: keep access to shutoff valves and switches and turn the furnace fan off before install. InterNACHI: a gas range needs a shutoff in the kitchen within 6 feet of the appliance. Cap or isolate lines so a pulled cabinet does not open a live circuit, gas, or water line. Licensed trades do the disconnects your permit requires.

Water, gas, and power isolated before demo: Done, Skip, or N/A

Appliances, counters, then cabinets removed in order

Home Depot remodeling sequence: check products in, then cabinet demo and install, then counter template after bases are set. Do not begin demolition before new cabinets are delivered and inspected. Pull appliances first so water, gas, and power can be isolated.

Appliances, counters, then cabinets removed in order: Done, Skip, or N/A

Debris staged and disposed, not left in living space

Home Depot: keep children and pets out of the work area. EPA: leaded dust from demo is the hazard, not just visible chips. Bag or contain painted debris from a pre-1978 kitchen and keep it out of the rest of the house. This line is not a hazardous-waste manifest.

Debris staged and disposed, not left in living space: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Rough electrical, plumbing, and vent

Walk the open walls before cabinets close them. Mark Skip if the trade is not on site yet. Mark N/A if that utility is not in this kitchen. Local codes adopt the IRC, NEC, or a state amendment: do not treat one code year as federal law.

10 items
Rough electrical, plumbing, and vent

Kitchen receptacles on identifiable GFCI protection

CPSC Pub. 513: use GFCI in kitchens and keep countertop appliances away from the sink, or on GFCI. Later NEC and IRC cycles expanded kitchen GFCI beyond the sink. InterNACHI citing IRC E3902: kitchen receptacles, including those within 6 feet of the sink, and many kitchen appliance circuits. This walk does not treat one code year as a fail. Mark Done when you can find TEST/RESET or a labeled GFCI breaker for the kitchen.

Kitchen receptacles on identifiable GFCI protection: Done, Skip, or N/A

Countertop small-appliance circuits planned

InterNACHI citing IRC E3901: kitchen countertop and dining receptacles are on small-appliance branch circuits. A gas-range 120-volt receptacle may share those circuits under a stated exception. CPSC: unplug countertop appliances when not in use and keep cords off the range. Have an electrician size the circuits. This form does not invent an amp fail.

Countertop small-appliance circuits planned: Done, Skip, or N/A

Island or peninsula receptacles planned

2021 IRC change (ICC preface): the number of island and peninsula countertop receptacles is based on countertop area, not a fixed outlet count. Confirm the adopted cycle with the AHJ. Mark N/A if there is no island or peninsula.

Island or peninsula receptacles planned: Done, Skip, or N/A

Range circuit or gas rough matches the specified unit

InterNACHI: a typical electric range uses a dedicated 240-volt outlet near the appliance (nameplate often 40 A; some low-kW units 30 A) and a 4-wire cord on a 4-prong receptacle on modern installs. A gas range still needs a 120-volt receptacle and a shutoff within 6 feet (IRC G2420.5). Connectors are limited to 6 feet (IRC G2422.1.2.1). Follow the nameplate and the gas fitter.

Range circuit or gas rough matches the specified unit: Done, Skip, or N/A

Sink supply, trap, and disposer rough-in set

Home Depot: the cleanup center is sink, dishwasher, and disposer together. A domestic disposer shares the sink trap. Confirm hot and cold supplies, a reachable pair of stops, and a trap the new sink can use. Do not claim a measured trap-seal depth unless you measured it. Mark N/A if the existing sink rough stays.

Sink supply, trap, and disposer rough-in set: Done, Skip, or N/A

Dishwasher shutoff and high loop or air gap planned

Confirm a dedicated dishwasher supply shutoff and a drain that rises in a high loop or uses an air gap where the local code or OEM requires it. Home Depot delivery notes call for a shutoff and a cord that can reach. Do not run a full cycle at rough-in. Mark N/A if there is no dishwasher.

Dishwasher shutoff and high loop or air gap planned: Done, Skip, or N/A

Refrigerator water line and shutoff if ice or water is specified

ENERGY STAR and Home Depot both treat ice makers and through-door water as options that change energy use and the rough-in. Provide a shutoff that can be reached after the fridge is set. Mark N/A if the specified fridge has no water connection.

Refrigerator water line and shutoff if ice or water is specified: Done, Skip, or N/A

Hood duct is metal and terminates outdoors if not recirculating

InterNACHI citing IRC M1503: domestic kitchen exhaust ducts are metal (galvanized, stainless, or copper), independent of other ducts, and terminate outdoors, not into an attic, soffit, ridge vent, or crawl space. Recirculating hoods are a listed exception when that is the product. Exterior termination clearances in the model code include 3 feet from property lines, operable windows, and gravity intakes, and 10 feet from mechanical intakes. Confirm the adopted code. Mark N/A if the hood recirculates by design.

Hood duct is metal and terminates outdoors if not recirculating: Done, Skip, or N/A

Makeup air checked if the hood is over 400 cfm

InterNACHI citing IRC M1503.6: makeup air is required when kitchen exhaust can move more than 400 cfm and the house has fuel-burning appliances that are not direct-vent or mechanically vented. High-cfm island hoods can backdraft a natural-draft water heater or furnace. Read the hood label. Mark N/A if the hood is 400 cfm or less, or if all combustion appliances are direct-vent or sealed.

Makeup air checked if the hood is over 400 cfm: Done, Skip, or N/A

Rough inspections called if a permit is open

Home Depot: permits may be required and are the contractor or owner responsibility. Close-in only after the electrical, plumbing, and mechanical inspectors have signed the card your AHJ uses. Filling this form is not an inspection request and not a permit.

Rough inspections called if a permit is open: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Cabinets and counters

Set boxes and template the counter after rough MEP is accepted. Mark N/A on a line that is not in this scope (for example a counter-only job). Vanity cabinets belong on a bathroom remodel list.

8 items
Cabinets and counters

Wall cabinets fastened into studs

Home Depot cabinet install guidance: find studs behind the wall cabinets and screw the boxes into those studs. Use a level and a ledger if you are hanging wall cabinets first. This is an owner look, not a fastener-schedule inspection.

Wall cabinets fastened into studs: Done, Skip, or N/A

Base cabinets level before the counter template

Home Depot remodeling sequence: install and level base cabinets, then have the counter templated. A racked or unlevel run shows up as a lip or a wide seam later. Shim to the high point. Do not template over boxes that still move.

Base cabinets level before the counter template: Done, Skip, or N/A

Fillers, panels, and end skins set

Home Depot: use filler strips where a run meets a wall or an appliance so doors clear and the box is scribed. Confirm refrigerator and dishwasher panels if the design called for them.

Fillers, panels, and end skins set: Done, Skip, or N/A

Appliance openings still match the spec sheets

Re-check width, height, and depth against the refrigerator, dishwasher, range, and wall-oven sheets after the boxes are set. A 1/4-inch miss is cheaper to fix now than after the counter is glued down. Do not invent a standard opening on this form.

Appliance openings still match the spec sheets: Done, Skip, or N/A

Counter templated after bases are set and signed off

Home Depot: once bases are in, the fabricator measures, then builds, then installs. Expect to be without the kitchen sink during that gap. Do not change the sink or cooktop cutout after the template without telling the shop.

Counter templated after bases are set and signed off: Done, Skip, or N/A

Sink mount matches the counter (undermount, drop-in, or apron)

Home Depot Planning Guide: undermount needs a compatible counter edge, drop-in works with more surfaces, apron-front needs a specified base cabinet. Confirm clips, rim seal, and the faucet hole count before the top is set.

Sink mount matches the counter (undermount, drop-in, or apron): Done, Skip, or N/A

Backsplash substrate ready and height agreed

Home Depot: the backsplash can match the counter or be a separate material. Confirm the cooktop clearance to the underside of wall cabinets or a microwave before you lock the height. IRC M1306 and InterNACHI citing G2447.5: follow the appliance label. Model code often wants 30 inches from the cooking top to combustibles, with a 24-inch path when a listed microwave or protection is installed. Confirm the adopted code and the OEM sheet.

Backsplash substrate ready and height agreed: Done, Skip, or N/A

Doors, drawers, and hardware started on a consistent layout

Home Depot: a hardware jig keeps pulls consistent. Confirm overlay, soft-close, and that drawers clear the dishwasher and range once those units are in. Leave final alignment for the finish punch if appliances are not set yet.

Doors, drawers, and hardware started on a consistent layout: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Finish punch

Walk after appliances are set and the counter is in. Mark Skip if a trade is still scheduled. Remaining items go in sign-off. This is a kitchen punch, not a whole-house punch list and not a bathroom remodel walk.

10 items
Finish punch

Cabinet doors and drawers align and close

Home Depot final walk: doors, drawers, and hardware should close without scrape and sit on a common line. Adjust hinges and slides. Note any damaged door that still needs a remake.

Cabinet doors and drawers align and close: Done, Skip, or N/A

Counter seams, sink rim, and backsplash sealed

Look at seams, the sink rim or undermount clips, and the backsplash joint for gaps that will take water. Home Depot treats the backsplash as the finish that protects the wall above the counter. This is not a stone-fabrication spec.

Counter seams, sink rim, and backsplash sealed: Done, Skip, or N/A

Kitchen GFCIs tested: TEST cuts power, RESET restores it

CPSC Pub. 513: test every GFCI monthly. Plug in a lamp, press TEST (light goes out), press RESET (light returns). If TEST does nothing, replace the device. Reset before you leave. InterNACHI tests observed GFCIs with a tester where possible.

Kitchen GFCIs tested: TEST cuts power, RESET restores it: Done, Skip, or N/A

Range or cooktop and oven operate on normal controls

InterNACHI (beyond SOP appliances): turn on each burner or element and the oven with normal controls, then turn them off. Do not leave the unit on unattended. CPSC: keep combustibles off the cooking top. Mark N/A if the cooking appliance is not yet set.

Range or cooktop and oven operate on normal controls: Done, Skip, or N/A

Range anti-tip bracket still engaged after set

CPSC Pub. 5007: the bracket should be on the wall or floor and the range should be held in it. Re-check after the range is slid back for cleaning or service. Mark N/A if there is no freestanding or slide-in range.

Range anti-tip bracket still engaged after set: Done, Skip, or N/A

Refrigerator level, doors seal, water line dry

ENERGY STAR: check door seals, keep the box away from heat, and leave space behind for air. If a water line was added, look behind and under for drips after the ice maker is on. Mark N/A if the fridge is not in this punch.

Refrigerator level, doors seal, water line dry: Done, Skip, or N/A

Dishwasher fills, drains, and does not leak

Run a short cycle if the unit is connected. Look at the supply, the drain loop or air gap, and the floor under the door. ENERGY STAR assumes a full load and no pre-rinse. Mark N/A if there is no dishwasher.

Dishwasher fills, drains, and does not leak: Done, Skip, or N/A

Hood moves air and, if ducted, discharges outside

InterNACHI SOP 3.9: inspect kitchen mechanical exhaust. Confirm the fan runs on each speed, filters are in, and a ducted unit does not blow into an attic. Makeup air stays on the rough-MEP line if the hood is over 400 cfm. Mark N/A if there is no hood.

Hood moves air and, if ducted, discharges outside: Done, Skip, or N/A

Kitchen sink, disposer, and stops dry after a run

Run hot and cold, operate the sprayer if installed, and pulse the disposer with water. Look under the sink at stops, supply lines, the basket strainer, the disposer flange, and the dishwasher drain tee. Mark N/A if the sink is not yet set.

Kitchen sink, disposer, and stops dry after a run: Done, Skip, or N/A

Remaining kitchen punch items listed at sign-off

Home Depot: the installer should do a final walk-through. Write every open kitchen item (paint, caulk, hardware, appliance, leak) in the sign-off notes. Do not move bathroom, laundry, or whole-house items onto this kitchen list.

Remaining kitchen punch items listed at sign-off: Done, Skip, or N/A

Form details

Open items and sign-off

Signing this template does not issue a permit, close a contract, or accept the work as a licensed inspection. If a gas odor, live wiring, or a lead-dust cleanup is still open, pick Licensed trade needed.

9 fields
Open items and sign-off

Rough, final, or a return trade. Not an official inspection request.

File or card number if one exists. This is not a permit application.

Draw your signature, or upload an image to replace it.

Draw your signature, or upload an image to replace it.

Leave blank if no contractor walked.

Done with this walkaround?

Download a filled or blank PDF, or a CSV. Answers stay in this tab. The next visitor sees a blank form.

References

  1. Renovation, Repair and Painting Program - U.S. EPA
  2. How will EPA interpret minor repair and maintenance activities? (6 sq ft / 20 sq ft) - U.S. EPA
  3. How To Save on Home Renovations with ENERGY STAR - ENERGY STAR
  4. Refrigerators - ENERGY STAR
  5. Dishwashers - ENERGY STAR
  6. Ventilation Fans - ENERGY STAR
  7. Range Tipover Safety Alert, Pub. 5007 - U.S. CPSC
  8. Home Electrical Safety Checklist, Pub. 513 - U.S. CPSC
  9. Inspection Checklist for the Kitchen Mechanical Exhaust Fan (IRC M1503) - InterNACHI
  10. Inspection Checklist for Electric and Gas Range, Cooktop, and Oven - InterNACHI
  11. Home Inspection Standards of Practice, kitchen mechanical exhaust - InterNACHI
  12. Chapter 13 General Mechanical System Requirements, M1306 appliance clearances - 2021 IRC (ICC)
  13. How to Design a Kitchen Floor Plan - The Home Depot
  14. Kitchen Planning Guide - The Home Depot
  15. Kitchen Remodeling Options for Every Home - The Home Depot

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These checklists are provided for general reference only. Always verify the steps against local codes, a licensed inspector or a qualified contractor before relying on them, especially for safety-critical work.