Fillable checklist

Sump Pump Maintenance Checklist: Pit Float and Backup (Free Printable PDF)

Fillable sump pump maintenance form for pit cleaning, float test, discharge, check valve, backup battery, and power. Print blank or save a filled PDF.

Maintenance Fillable form · 7 sections · 28 checks Download filled or blank PDF and CSV Cross-checked against FEMA, Ready.gov, Zoeller, and Wayne · Last verified Sep 16, 2026

Snugage fillable checklist

Fill this on screen, then download a PDF or CSV. Download a blank copy to complete by hand. Answers stay in this tab only. The next visitor sees a blank form. This is owner periodic care for a US home sump pump (pit, float, discharge, check valve, backup or battery if present, and power). It is not a full home inspection and not a substitute for the OEM manual or a licensed plumber. This form does not set a gallons-per-hour pass or fail.

  • 7 sections
  • 28 checks
  • Blank for each visitor

Form details

Pump, pit, and service date

Record the pump that is actually in the pit. Mark backup and battery dates N/A when there is no second pump. This is a maintenance template, not a substitute for the OEM procedure or a licensed plumber.

12 fields
Pump, pit, and service date

Basement, crawl space, or other. InterNACHI: usually the lowest part of the floor.

From the nameplate or cord tag (Zoeller, Wayne, Superior Pump, or other). Use this to pull the owner's manual.

Zoeller FAQ: under normal service they design for about a 7 to 10 year service life, with periodic servicing. Record the year. This is not a pass or fail age.

Ready.gov: consider a sump pump with a battery. Zoeller: battery-powered or 540 Flex water-powered. Leave blank if none.

Zoeller Aquanot: check the battery and connections at least monthly. Some Aquanot sheets say replace the battery about every 3 years (one sheet says 3 to 4). Follow this backup's OEM.

Zoeller: remove basin debris at least every three months. Wayne: inspect 3 to 4 times per year.

Owner, technician name, or company.

Inspection station

Pit, inlet screen, and pump body

Disconnect power before you lift the pump or reach near the cord. Skip a line only when it is not due this visit. Mark N/A only if that part is not installed. Float travel and the water test stay in the float section.

6 items
Pit, inlet screen, and pump body

Power disconnected before handling the pump

Zoeller and Wayne: always disconnect the pump from power before installing, servicing, or adjusting. Superior Pump: disconnect and lock out power before removing or servicing. FEMA urban-flooding guidance also treats wet electrical gear as a shock risk. Unplug and, if needed, open the breaker. Do not lift the pump by the cord (Wayne, Superior Pump).

Power disconnected before handling the pump: Done, Skip, or N/A

Pit cleaned of mud, silt, sand, and debris

Zoeller: at least every three months, remove debris so it cannot jam the float. Wayne: inspect 3 to 4 times per year and remove debris on the switch or float. Superior Pump: periodically clean mud, silt, sand, and foreign objects. Stones and gravel can clog the inlet.

Pit cleaned of mud, silt, sand, and debris: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inlet or intake screen cleaned

Wayne: check the inlet screen and clear small stones or debris. Superior Pump: periodically check the removable intake screen. InterNACHI: the screen keeps dirt out but can be overwhelmed, so clean often on a pump that runs a lot. FEMA's indexed how-to also lists a hose and wire-brush clean of the inlet screen (live page was blocked here).

Inlet or intake screen cleaned: Done, Skip, or N/A

Pump upright on a solid base, not on gravel or sand

Wayne: keep the pump standing upright. Vibration can tip it and jam the float. Superior Pump: set it on a solid foundation, not clay, earth, gravel, or sand. Bricks or blocks can raise it. Reposition the pump if it has walked (Wayne).

Pump upright on a solid base, not on gravel or sand: Done, Skip, or N/A

Pit cover in place after service

InterNACHI: cover the pit so water does not evaporate into the house. Put the cover back after you clean or test. Mark N/A only if the pit is built without a cover and local practice leaves it open.

Pit cover in place after service: Done, Skip, or N/A

Pit has room for the float to travel

Wayne: at least 1 inch of side clearance for the switch, and keep the switch away from the inlet. Zoeller: if the float is restricted, the pump will not operate. Their install sheet for those models lists a basin at least 18 inches deep and 10 inches in diameter. InterNACHI: a cramped 5-gallon bucket is not enough, and they cite about 24 inches deep and 18 inches wide for most homes. Those figures disagree. Follow this pump's OEM and local code. This form does not treat one pit size as a pass or fail.

Pit has room for the float to travel: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Float switch and cycle test

Restore power only after the pump is back in the pit and the discharge is connected. Mark N/A on a manual pump with no float. Do not invent a gallons-per-hour pass or fail from the nameplate.

5 items
Float switch and cycle test

Float moves freely through its travel

Wayne, Zoeller, and Superior Pump: the float must move without hitting the basin, the pump, the pipe, or debris. Wayne: some tether and vertical floats are not owner-adjustable. InterNACHI: a jammed float will not turn the pump on or off. Clean debris off the float (Superior Pump).

Float moves freely through its travel: Done, Skip, or N/A

Water-fill test: primary pump starts on its own

Wayne and InterNACHI: pour a bucket of water into the pit and confirm the pump starts automatically. Zoeller and Superior Pump: fill the basin and watch the float through a cycle. FEMA's indexed how-to uses the same bucket test. If it does not start, have it serviced or replaced (Wayne, InterNACHI).

Water-fill test: primary pump starts on its own: Done, Skip, or N/A

Pump runs, then shuts off at the off level

Wayne and Superior Pump: watch one full on and off cycle. The pump should stop when the float drops. Zoeller troubleshooting: a float stuck on, or a defective switch, keeps the pump running. Do not time a required GPH. This form only records that it started, moved water, and stopped.

Pump runs, then shuts off at the off level: Done, Skip, or N/A

No rapid on-off cycling after the stop

Zoeller FAQ: short cycling wears the switch. A missing or leaking check valve lets water fall back and restart the pump. Wayne: examine the check valve if water returns or the valve leaks. Mark Skip if you only ran one short fill and could not watch a second cycle.

No rapid on-off cycling after the stop: Done, Skip, or N/A

No one reached into the pit by hand during the test

InterNACHI: when testing, do not reach into the pit. Lift or free a float only with a non-conductive tool if you must. Keep hands dry and stay out of standing water when power is on (Zoeller).

No one reached into the pit by hand during the test: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Discharge pipe and check valve

These lines are the pipe, check valve, and outdoor outlet only. Pit debris and the float test stay in the earlier sections. Mark vent-hole lines N/A when this OEM has no air-lock hole.

6 items
Discharge pipe and check valve

Check valve installed, flow arrow away from the pump

Wayne: a check valve is required to stop back-flow after each cycle. Zoeller: install one so water does not drain back into the basin. Superior Pump: full-flow swing type, same size as the discharge, in the correct flow direction. InterNACHI: same diameter as the pipe. Ready.gov: install check valves as flood prep (their page also covers sewer check valves).

Check valve installed, flow arrow away from the pump: Done, Skip, or N/A

Check valve inspected for stuck flap or leaks

Wayne: if water returns, remove and examine the valve for correct install and free operation, then replace if needed. Superior Pump: a valve stuck closed or installed backwards stops flow. Some water may run back when you open the joint (Wayne and FEMA's indexed how-to). Disconnect power first.

Check valve inspected for stuck flap or leaks: Done, Skip, or N/A

Discharge pipe clear, rigid, and able to drain

Wayne: use rigid pipe and fittings, not flexible hose, in a permanent install. Superior Pump: corrugated hose is temporary only. Wayne and Superior Pump: if the line can freeze, slope it downhill so leftover water drains. A clogged or frozen line is a common no-flow cause (Superior Pump).

Discharge pipe clear, rigid, and able to drain: Done, Skip, or N/A

Outlet sends water away so it does not return to the pit

Wayne: while the pump runs, confirm the pipe carries water to a point at least 3 feet from the foundation. InterNACHI homeowner note: they cite at least 20 feet from the building and warn against sending water back to the house, onto a neighbor, into a public sewer where banned, or into a septic system. Those distances disagree, and local plumbing or storm-water rules control. Record that water leaves and does not loop back. This form does not treat 3 feet or 20 feet as a pass or fail.

Outlet sends water away so it does not return to the pit: Done, Skip, or N/A

Vent or anti-airlock hole clear (if the OEM uses one)

Zoeller: drill a 3/16 inch vent hole in the discharge pipe, level with the top of the pump, between the pump and the check valve, and clean it at least every three months. Spray from that hole is normal. Superior Pump: many of their units have a built-in anti-airlock hole that should be cleaned periodically. Mark N/A if this pump has neither.

Vent or anti-airlock hole clear (if the OEM uses one): Done, Skip, or N/A

Discharge is not tied into the septic or an indoor drain

InterNACHI: never send sump water into a house septic system. Many places also ban a tie into the sanitary sewer. Ready.gov flood prep is about sending water away from the house, not into plumbing that can back up. Mark N/A only if you cannot see the outdoor outlet this visit.

Discharge is not tied into the septic or an indoor drain: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Backup pump, battery, and alarm

Mark the whole section N/A when there is no backup pump, battery, or alarm. Ready.gov and FEMA still recommend backup power in flood-prone basements. Do not invent a runtime or GPH pass or fail.

6 items
Backup pump, battery, and alarm

Backup pump or backup power reviewed (or N/A)

Ready.gov Floods: consider a sump pump with a battery. FEMA flood sheet: install a back valve and a battery-operated sump pump. Ready Business power-outage toolkit: give the pump a battery, generator, or other backup, because outages and storms often arrive together. Zoeller also sells water-powered backups. Wayne: use an independent high-water alarm or backup when property damage is a risk. Mark N/A if none is installed.

Backup pump or backup power reviewed (or N/A): Done, Skip, or N/A

Backup battery charged, terminals clean, ready light on

Zoeller Aquanot: the owner checks the battery and connections at least monthly. Keep terminals free of corrosion. Green system-ready means AC is on and there is no alarm. Do not use gel or automotive starting batteries on the Aquanot sheets that ban them. Follow this controller's OEM.

Backup battery charged, terminals clean, ready light on: Done, Skip, or N/A

Wet-cell water checked, or N/A for sealed / AGM

Zoeller Aquanot: check electrolyte or water on wet-cell batteries once a month and add distilled water only as that sheet allows. Maintenance-free or AGM types do not get that monthly water check. Keep the battery in its box if the OEM supplies one.

Wet-cell water checked, or N/A for sealed / AGM: Done, Skip, or N/A

Backup float moves freely and is not hung up

Zoeller backup sheets: the installing party must keep the backup float clear of the primary pump, piping, and pit walls so it can turn the DC pump on and off. Same rule as the primary float (Wayne, Superior Pump).

Backup float moves freely and is not hung up: Done, Skip, or N/A

Backup water test run (primary unplugged)

Zoeller Aquanot: inspect and test at least every 3 months. Confirm the ready light, unplug the primary pump and controller, fill to the DC on level, let it run a few minutes, silence the alarm, confirm it shuts off, then reset and restore the primary. Other brands differ. Follow this backup's sheet. Mark Skip if you only did a visual this visit.

Backup water test run (primary unplugged): Done, Skip, or N/A

High-water alarm present and tested, or N/A

Zoeller FAQ: a high-water alarm is always recommended on a single-pump system. InterNACHI: an alarm is valuable but not required. FEMA urban-flooding checklist asks whether an alarm warns when water rises above the pit. Test per the OEM. Mark N/A if none is installed.

High-water alarm present and tested, or N/A: Done, Skip, or N/A

Inspection station

Power, cord, and GFCI

These lines are the outlet, cord, and breaker only. The backup-battery test stays in the backup section. Electrical repairs beyond a visual and a reset are a licensed task.

5 items
Power, cord, and GFCI

Primary pump plugged into a working grounded outlet

Wayne: confirm it is plugged into a working GFCI outlet and the cord is in good shape. Zoeller: plug into a properly grounded GFCI outlet that a wall switch cannot turn off, and do not use an extension cord. Superior Pump: 3-prong grounded receptacle, GFCI strongly recommended. A pump with no power cannot protect the basement (FEMA urban flooding).

Primary pump plugged into a working grounded outlet: Done, Skip, or N/A

GFCI or breaker status recorded (reset only if safe)

Wayne: in damp areas a GFCI can trip and silently kill the pump, so check and reset if needed. InterNACHI notes a real debate: codes often want GFCI in basements, but a nuisance trip can flood the house if no one is home. This form records whether the device is tripped or holding. It does not invent a required GFCI pass or fail. Call an electrician for a breaker or GFCI that will not reset.

GFCI or breaker status recorded (reset only if safe): Done, Skip, or N/A

Cord intact, ground pin present, not used as a handle

Wayne and Superior Pump: do not lift or carry the pump by the power cord. Use the handle. Superior Pump: replace the pump if the cord is damaged. Never remove the ground pin (Wayne, Superior Pump, Zoeller).

Cord intact, ground pin present, not used as a handle: Done, Skip, or N/A

Breaker or disconnect for the pump identified

You need to know which breaker feeds the pit before the next storm. FEMA urban flooding: do not touch electrical equipment if it is wet or if you are standing in water. Ready.gov: be aware of electrocution risk after a flood.

Breaker or disconnect for the pump identified: Done, Skip, or N/A

Cord secured so it cannot tangle the float

Wayne: secure the cord to the discharge pipe with a tie so it cannot entangle the switch. Zoeller: tape the cord to the discharge pipe for the same reason. A dangling cord is a common float jam.

Cord secured so it cannot tangle the float: Done, Skip, or N/A

Form details

Service log and sign-off

Write what you cleaned and tested, set the next pit and backup dates, then sign. If the pump did not start, the pit flooded, or wiring is wet, pick Licensed technician needed instead of Service complete.

8 fields
Service log and sign-off

Zoeller: at least every three months. Wayne: 3 to 4 times per year. Superior Pump: cycle an idle pump at least monthly.

Zoeller Aquanot: test the backup at least every 3 months. Mark N/A if there is no backup.

FEMA urban-flooding checklist asks whether the sump pump is maintained annually. InterNACHI: maintenance annually and when the home is sold.

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References

  1. Flood preparedness, check valves, and battery-backed sump pumps - Ready.gov
  2. Flood hazard info sheet: battery-operated sump pump - FEMA / Ready.gov
  3. Power-outage toolkit: sump pump backup power - Ready.gov
  4. Urban flooding guidance: annual sump maintenance, battery backup, and alarm - FEMA
  5. Submersible sump pump routine maintenance - Wayne Pumps
  6. Submersible sump pump care every three months - Zoeller
  7. Vent hole, switch life, and backup systems FAQ - Zoeller Pumps
  8. Aquanot 12 V DC battery backup test every 3 months - Zoeller Pumps
  9. Sump pump operation and inspection guide - InterNACHI

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These checklists are provided for general reference only. Always verify the steps against local codes, a licensed inspector or a qualified contractor before relying on them, especially for safety-critical work.